WINTERING PONDS

Preparing Fish

During fall, pond fish begin eating in earnest to build up fat reserves for their semi-hibernation over winter. Feed fish sparingly with a low protein, high-fiber diet during fall to avoid undigested food remaining in their systems Once the water temperature falls below 55° F, their metabolism slows down, making digestion difficult. Stop feeding fish at this temperature.

It is a good idea to check fish to determine their state of health before the first frost. A fish’s immune system ceases to function below 50°F so any wounds or bacterial lesions that have not healed will worsen during winter. It may be necessary to bring wounded fish indoors.

Leaving Fish Outside

If hardy fish are left in the pond over winter, it is essential to aerate the water and leave a hole in the ice for noxious gases, caused by decaying vegetation, to escape. Fish will only survive in oxygenated water. Aerators are available from Pasquesi Home and Gardens. Also, de-icers are available to prevent the pond from freezing over. Should the pond surface freeze, immediately melt a hole in the surface using a metal bucket filled with boiling water. Do not break the ice by force as the shock waves can destroy the fish.

Bringing Fish Indoors

Fish should be moved inside to an aquarium or small pool if the pond is too shallow or contains non-hardy fish. The first frost of the season is a good time to do this.

Large goldfish and Koi will winter comfortably and economically in a child’s plastic wading pool set in the basement. Indoor temperatures should range between 50° F to 62° F. Smaller fish will survive in a standard aquarium. A water filtering system is necessary to maintain the water quality and to aerate the water.

Before bringing fish inside, it is important to prepare their winter homes at least two weeks in advance so that the correct nitrogen levels can be established. Catch fish in plastic bags or containers filled with water from their pond and place entire receptacle in aquarium to equalize water temperatures. Fish can then be transferred safely.

Carefully monitor fish over the first weeks for stress-induced parasitic diseases.

Remember, cold-water fish require fewer feedings during the winter. A daily feed is required if they are in a temperature range of 50° F and 62° F. If the temperature drops to between 40° F and 50° F, fish will require feeding only twice a week.

WINTERING PLANTS

Make sure hardy water lilies are not frozen during the winter. Before the water cools in the fall, trim back foliage and place plants at the pond’s bottom. Ensure the pond is at least 30" deep. When ice gets four to six inches thick, run a pond de-icer for a day. Allow to refreeze after this. This method keeps ice from reaching the bottom and electric bills low.

If a pond isn’t deep enough to overwinter lilies and lotus outdoors, place pots in a cool and dark area such as a basement or cellar.

Submerged plants such as Cabomba, Elodea or Vallisneria will winter well underwater as long as they do not freeze. The pond should be at least 36" deep. Trim plants back within an inch of the bed or pot during late fall. If the pond is too shallow, it may be necessary to bring them indoors.

Tropical water lilies and floating plants must be brought indoors approximately one month before the first hard frost. There are several options for wintering:

• Allow lilies to dry and then remove and thoroughly clean tubers. Store in distilled water in sealed containers in a cool dark place (approximately 55°F to 65°F). Refresh water periodically. Also try storing in a container with damp (not wet) sand. Punch holes in the lid to allow for air circulation. Store in the same conditions and check regularly.

• Drain water from pots, put a moist layer of peat moss around the pot and cover with burlap. Keep in a cool dark place (approximately 55°F to 65°F) and moisten every few weeks - do not allow molding. Ensure they are protected from rodents.

• Remove the tubers from the soil and trim off all vegetation. Place in plastic bags with holes and submerge in an aquarium at 55°F or below. The water must be changed weekly.

Returning Lilies and Lotus to the Pond

Wait until the pond is at least 70°F before moving plants outdoors. Cold water can shock them, delaying new leaves and blossoms.

Once the pond’s temperature is stable, transplant each lily and lotus to a large pot that will hold up to four to six quarts of soil for lilies, and a two to four gallon pot of lotus. Water lilies grow best in rich soil mixed with clay. Keep the lily’s crown above the soil level. The lotus plant’s growing tip should be one-half inch above the soil line. Cover with gravel or sand. Insert water-lily fertilizer tablets into the soil and submerge the plant into the pond so that the growing tip of the dormant plant is just a few inches below the water surface. Set the container on bricks if the pond is too deep. The pot can then be lowered as the plant begins to grow. The ideal depth to lilies, from the top of the soil to the water level, is 18 to 22 inches.

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