Generally, it loses it brilliant color around March or April, but gardeners can help it turn from muddy green to red again in time for next year's festive season.

Selecting Poinsettias

The number, size and color of the bracts is not the only important consideration to take into account when choosing a poinsettia. The bracts are the red petals which are modified leaves. The true flowers are the bead-like yellow or green buds found clustered at the center of each group of bracts. It is the flowers, or cyathias, which indicate the freshness of the plant. A quality poinsettia will have its pollen intact, solid green leaves, and its bracts will be free of blemishes.

Bracts with brown edges may indicate damage from handling, over-fertilization, cold or excess heat. Indications of dryness include yellowing bracts, or a plant losing its leaves from the base.

Poinsettia Care

During the holiday season, a little seasonal attention will ensure the poinsettia maintains its color well into March. Keep the plant away from direct sun, which will fade the bracts, though it does need six to eight hours of sun every day. It should be kept away from drafts of cold or hot air. The potting mixture should be kept evenly moist, never becoming dry or waterlogged.

After the holidays, in early January, place the poinsettia in a bright location, such as a south-facing window. Remember to check the plant's water requirements due to the increase in light and heat. Ideal temperatures are 60^oF - 70^oF. Fertilize sparingly - once every two to three weeks, with a fertilizer ratio of 20-20-20 or 10-30-20. High nitrogen fertilizers may cause weak growth at this stage of its life.

During early April begin to water and fertilize the poinsettia less. This will toughen the roots and prepare it for the outdoors.

April is the ideal time to repot and prune the poinsettia. Repot into a container that is at least two inches larger in diameter than the plant and two inches deeper.

Prune the poinsettia by cutting off all bracts and new leaf shoots. This will stimulate new growth to replace weaker winter growth that will not flower.

To obtain a larger plant, place the poinsettia outdoors after the danger of frost is past and when night temperatures are above 50^oF. Gradually increase the length of time outdoors to climatize the plant. Ensure the poinsettia receives adequate water and weekly fertilizer - this will enable young growth to mature in the harsh outdoor conditions. As the new shoot develops, pinch tips back, leaving two or three newly-matured leaves on the new lead stem. Pinching until early September will help produce a large, bushy plant with lots of brilliant color by December.

To Stimulate Color

Poinsettias are photoperiodic, which means they respond to lengthening nights. For the poinsettia to turn red by the holidays, it needs 14 hours of complete darkness at night, beginning October 1. Begin by placing the poinsettia in a bright sunny window when temperatures are cool outside. At night, place a box over the plant, or place it in a dark room. Make sure the room is free from artificial light such as street lights or headlights. This dark period should begin at 5:00 p.m. and continue until 8:00 a.m. at which time the plant should be uncovered and returned to the sunny window. Continue this process until mid-December, or until the bracts begin to show color. Vigilance is important: a moment of light at the wrong time will spoil the effect. Cool night temperatures of 61^oF will cause faster flower initiation and brighter colors. Fertilize regularly using half-strength fertilizer according to the manufacturer's recommendations.

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