PRUNING TREES AND SHRUBS

Pruning Basics

Pruning serves a myriad of purposes:

• improves light and air circulation by thinning out dense growth
• removes unwanted, dead, broken and insect-infested branches
• removes branches that rub against each other and ultimately cause wounds attracting insects and disease
• removes branches hazardous to motorists, pedestrians and power lines
• controls the size, shape and flowering of a plant
• helps develop a framework of strong, sturdy branches

Tools

Tools should be sharp and in working order. There are five tools Pasquesi Home and Gardens recommends having on hand.

• Hand Pruners. These scissors-like instruments work well with small pruning tasks, such as rose bushes, small shrubs and young tree growth.
• Loppers. Twenty to 36 inches in length, these shears give more leverage than hand pruners and work well for cuts of up to one inch in diameter on mature shrubs.
• Hedge Shears. Used for formal hedge pruning, these are six to 12 inches in length.
• Pruning Saw. For cuts over one inch in diameter, this 14- to 28-inch saw has coarse teeth and is resistant to binding and gumming from sap from mature trees.
• Pole Pruner. Avoiding risky ladder work, this tool is for reaching smaller branches high off the ground. Pole pruners are usually eight feet long and can be extended. Gardeners must be sure to avoid falling twigs and branches.

Removing Limbs

Three cuts are necessary to remove large limbs without damaging the tree. The first cut is made one to two feet away from the tree trunk. Make the cut approximately one-third of the way through the limb on its under side. The second cut should be made slightly further from the trunk and from the top side. Cut through the tree till the limb breaks free. At this point only a small portion of the limb should remain. The final cut is made at the branch collar, where the tree swells slightly as the branch meets the trunk. If a branch is removed improperly, it may break off, causing a large wound and stripping the tree's bark.

Correct		Incorrect!

Treating Wounds

When a branch is removed it leaves a wound. Properly-removed branches will leave wounds that will heal quickly. However, poorly-removed branches will produce vulnerable, slow-healing wounds that attract insects and disease. If large, ragged or irregular wounds are present, use a sharp knife and chisel to cut injured wood back to the healthy live tissue. Also, try temporarily wrapping large wounds with tree wrap.

Tree Pruning

Most tree pruning involves removing branches that are hazardous or unhealthy. It is important to prune branches that are growing inward, or that are criss-crossed. Ensure pruning makes room for new growth, and enables light to enter. The winter's dormant period is the ideal time for pruning as disease and insect infestations are greatly reduced. Ensure maples, honey locusts, birch, ironwood and elm are pruned before late winter or after early spring to avoid "bleeding" of sap, which though not damaging to the tree, is unattractive.

Evergreen Pruning and Shearing

Evergreens generally require minimal pruning since many people prefer their natural form, so usually, pruning is limited to growth defects unless they are incorporated in hedging.
Continuously-growing evergreens, such as junipers, arborvitae, yews and hemlock, should not be pruned after August as late-season pruning makes them more susceptible to winter injury.
New growth on pines must be pruned before it becomes woody. The ends of these growths, or candles, are located at the tips of branches, and should be removed in early June as they tend to become woody later. Regular pruning may be necessary to keep pines dense and compact. Spruce and fir may require regular pruning to hold their shape, too.

Shrub Pruning

Spring flowering shrubs should be pruned following flowering to allow the plants to develop new buds for the next season. Summer-flowering shrubs usually bloom from new wood and are best pruned before new growth starts. If a shrub is grown primarily for its foliage it should be pruned in early spring and during the growing season as needed. Avoid pruning shrubs in the late fall or early winter as this may leave the plant vulnerable to winter injury.
Rejuvenation pruning should begin before growth starts in the spring. Prune shrubs back within three to six inches of the ground. For overgrown shrubs, cutting one-third of the old stems to the ground will help to thin out dense growth and ultimately provide a bushier appearance. Gardeners will find this especially helpful with red and yellow dogwoods, which display the most color on young stems.

Pasquesi Home and Gardens is Chicagoland's premier resource for gardeners wanting to create a perfect atmosphere. We have a vast selection of plants, many of them rare and unusual. Our qualified, professional staff is ever-willing to share their knowledge with customers needing advice.

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